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Surfing Mountains

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Imagine waiting in the ocean for a mountain of water to loom on the horizon, knowing full well it may be the last thing you ever do.

Only a select few of hardy watermen have the makings for the perilous sport of big-wave surfing. Skill, while imperative, is only part of the picture and there are a whole bunch of other attributes necessary for “safely” throwing oneself into the Jaws of Mother Nature.

Given that surfing originated in Hawaii, home of some of the world’s largest waves, it makes sense that big-wave surfing too, has its origins from this small chain of islands.

The gigantic waves of Waimea Bay on the North Shore of Oahu were first surfed in 1957, shining a spotlight on the men who braved these monsters.

Famous charger, Eddie Aikau came onto the Waimea scene 10 years later, both as a lifeguard and respected big-wave surfer. His death led to the inception of the annual Eddie Aikau Memorial in 1984 and the phrase “Eddie would go” referring to his fearless surfing of big waves………

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